PREMATURE GREYING OF HAIR

 DR.  K S Prasanna, Dermatologist, Institute of Applied Dermatology, Kasaragod, Kerala

Premature greying of hair is defined as greying of hair before the age of 25years. By the age of 50years, 50% of the population would have 50% of their hair turned grey.  As greying of hair is considered a sign of old age, premature greying of hair (PGH) can severely affect the self-esteem of a young individual.

Reasons for premature greying of hair

There are differences between pigmentation of the skin and that of the hair. The skin and hair contain two types of cells-Keratinocytes and Melanocytes. Melanocytes give colour to the skin and hair. Keratinocytes are the major cells of the outermost layer of the skin(epidermis), which protects the skin. In the hair, each melanocyte is associated with 5 keratinocytes resulting in Epidermal Melanin Unit. Pigment production in the skin is continuous. Whereas pigment production in the hair is associated with the stages of the hair cycle. Hair undergoes three cycles throughout our life namely Anagen (growth phase), catagen(transitional), and telogen(resting). Hair is pigmented only in the anagen phase of the hair cycle.

Hairs on the facial area like the beard and moustache generally start becoming grey before the scalp and body hair. In men greying first occurs in the temples and side. Then it spreads to the vertex and the rest of the scalp involving the occiput(back) last. In ladies, greying is noticed in the boundaries of the scalp. Due to an admixture of pigmented and white hairs, there is a visual impression of grey. Grey hair is coarse, stiff, and less manageable than pigmented hair.

Genetic and environmental elements influence the colour of the hair. Various genes and cell-to-cell interaction (cell signaling) pathways can cause early greying. Progeria (E.g. Mr. Amitabh banchan's film Paa), Vitiligo, Vitamin b12 deficiency, deficiency of iron, calcium, copper, decreased thyroid hormones, smoking, protein-energy malnutrition, drugs such as antimalarial, chloroquine, and less HDL are some of the factors contributing to it.

Diagnosis is mainly clinical, however, those who do not have any history of early onset of greying in their family need to undergo few tests like blood levels of thyroid, lipid, iron, calcium, vitamin b12, and vitamin D.

Dealing with premature graying: Tips & Tricks

Hair dyes and hair colours remain the main modality of the treatment for cosmetic concerns after nutritional supplementation. Plucking of grey hair is an early option for an individual with nearly10% grey hair. Most individuals apply hair colourants for the restoration of hair colour. Hair colours can be prepared from natural products or can be synthesized artificially. Natural hair dyes are prepared from Indian Gooseberry (Emblica Officinalis), False Daisy (Eclipta Elba), and Lotus tree (Zizyphus Spina-Christi), Noni, and Henna. Henna makes the hair red in colour. The advantage of natural hair dyes is that they are non-allergic and non-toxic.

Permanent hair dyes are most popular in the market. There is a risk of damage to the hair shaft. Some individuals are allergic to the chemical paraphenylenediamine (PPD) in it. Many manufacturers recently have started to produce permanent and demi-permanent and semi-permanent hair dyes, in which PPD has been replaced with para- toluene diamine (PTDS). But PPD and PTDS   are closely related and individuals who are allergic to PPD may be allergic to PTDS. Hair dye allergy can be identified by doing an allergy test called the Patch test.

Long-lasting (known as permanent) hair colour generally contains ammonium and hydrogen peroxide. It penetrates the hair cuticle and thus damages the hair shaft. It lasts for about 4-6 weeks.  Short lasting (Known as demi permanent) hair colour contains low ammonium and it does not penetrate the cuticle, but it wraps the hair cuticle. So, it gives a coating to the hair which is gradually washed away within 28 days. It does not damage the hair. Semipermanent hair colours are ammonia-free. It does not penetrate the hair shaft. And it is removed by 4-12 hair washing.

Hair colouring products are now defined by “LIFT”, meaning lightening the hair colour. There are nearly ten grades of hair lift, ranging from black to blond. In premature greying, Lifting or lightening the surrounding hair colour turns the darker hair colour into the hue of grey hair. The result is that Gray hair is more effectively covered when the hair is lifted. This is not ideal for men because most men want some grey hair to remain as it is so that they do not appear to be wearing a hairpiece. Some women also prefer this type of natural look. Therefore, demi-permanent dyes are designed to cover most but not all grey hair. These demi-permanent dyes usually incorporate ethanolamine to give some lift and do a moderately effective job of covering grey. Semipermanent dyes have no lift and cover grey hair minimally.

Hair colouring is quite safe, if your friends are teasing you for grey hairs. Do not hesitate to use it. But follow the instructions written on it.